Sunday, August 4, 2013

My American feast

A normal part of extended periods away are unnatural cravings for bits of the homeland. Let it be known that for three months I have been deprived of these foods, and they make up my ideal first meal back at home. 


PB&J
Bacon
Corn on the cob (butter and salt)
Anything BBQ from Billy Boys on 95th st.
Scones and jam + cream
Strawberries and cream


Coffee with heavy cream & iced coffee
A good beer
Mint julip/ mojito
Mint chocolate chip shake

All of this outside in the yard under the trees, by the way. 

So there ya go. Psycho-analyze away!

My Turkish travels as lived by my stomach

So a big part of my Turkish experience revolved around food and travel.  So I'm going to tie the places I went to with what I ate while I was there. Sund good? Good. 

Best balık ekmek - İstanbul. A trip to Kadıköy will land you the best grilled fish one a baguette you have ever had. Best experienced seated in a chair designed for toddlers. 

Best lahmacun - Antep. My friends know that my favorite Turkish food is the Syrian pizza, and no one does it better than Antep. I'll be honest and admit that I took two trips of several hundred miles each way just for the food. Too bad I got hideously ill on one of them. 

Çiği böreği - Eski Şehir. Ok so it was only a shop, but I had the greatest Caucasian meat pastries there. Plus peppers that come disguised as tomato sauce and will KILL you. 

Honey - one of the few nice things I can say about Kars is that they have great honey. And a restaurant call Döneristan.  

Biber dolması - my other favorite Turkish food is stuffed pepper. My host mother made the best in the world, and I've looked all over Turkey and still haven't found better. 

So there ya are. All my trips described in food (Trabzon doesn't count because I only ate there twice). 

Oh! And if anyone knows of a recipe for BİBER DOLMASI, let me know

Afiyet olsun!

Last day in Turkey (my extended layover in İstanbul)

So it is my last day in Turkey, and I'm feeling a weird mixture of things. It's been wonderful having this sort of unexpected return to Turkey - I wasn't preparing last year to come back for a second year in a row - but I'm definitely ready to go back home. 

I treated today like a very extended layover in İstanbul. Basically, I had 24 hours in he city to do whatever I wanted. A friend of a friend put me up in her apartment right off Taksim.

So today I sat in a cafe in the bazaar beneath the Blue Mosque (the rental fees pay for part of the upkeep of the mosque), and drank çay and Türkçe kahvesi and wrote. It was a very relaxing way to spend my last day in Turkey for a while. Tough that's what I said last year too, hahaha! I think my friends and family would be peeved if I went to turkey for a third year in a row though hahaha!

İstanbul is the kind of city that is too large to even wrap your head around it, let alone experience. 2 continents, 16 million people in the city proper. It's insane. No one can see everything in the city. 

I went to Topkapı palace public gardens today which was pleasant, and something I've never done before, and then I went to get ottoman beef stew for dinner. Omnomnomnomnom! Now I'm at the apartment drinking my last Efes, and writing again. It's 1:45 in the morning and I need to be align out the door at 3:30. This could be a long night. Oh well. I'm coming home!!

Bt in all seriousness, my time in Turkey has been wonderful. It was a surprise to be able to come back so soon, and I'm looking forward to coming back. For all of its cultural insularity and weirdness, it's nice and the people are genuinely friendly. There is a lot left for me to learn, and I can't wait. 

See you state side!
Hugh

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

7 days out

Well, one week out. Today is my last day of substantive work, and it feels nice.I think that I've done substantive and valuable work, I've learned a lot, and I've had a good summer break.  However, I am definitely ready to be home, even if it is only for a few days.

Tomorrow I'll be taking off, going east on an overnight train.  It should be an experience.  I'll be in Kars for those of you interested.  I'm going to see the ancient city of Ani on the Turkey-Armenia border.  Check out the links below:

https://www.google.com/search?biw=1152&bih=773&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=ani%2C+turkey&btnG=

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ani

https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Kars,+Ocakl%C4%B1+K%C3%B6y%C3%BC,+Ocakl%C4%B1,+Turkey&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=N&tab=wl&authuser=0

Sunday, July 28, 2013

Goodbye 87/7 Bardacık Sokağı, Küçük Esat, Ankara, Türkiye!

Well a momentous life milestone has passed. I have moved out of my first apartment! It's bitter sweet. I had fun living on my own, even if the water heater went out a few times while I was trying to shower. 

Bt this points to another set of events coming up. I'm leaving Ankara on Wednesday! Yikes! Summer has flown, and I feel like I haven't been here three months. But I guess I have. 

I'm going to be taking an over night trip to the Far East of Turkey to the city of Kars. I'll be touring the ancient Armenian Capitol of Ani which is fit on the border before I fly to İstanbul. The train is something I've been really looking forward to. I have a ticket for a one person sleeper compartment. The train goes along the Euphrates river for 10 hours, and it's supposed to be beautiful. I'll try and be a bit productive on the train, but mainly this is just my last big trip in turkey, and I'm looking forward to it. 

Count down: 8 days

Friday, July 5, 2013

Fourth of July abroad


I think that anyone who has spent a significant amount of time abroad will be able to relate to this post. I find that when I'm abroad, several of my belief structures are strengthened, including senses of patriotism. 

This last week has seen the anniversary of US independence, and I have to say that this year's was particularly memorable for me. Being in a foreign country during your national day is surreal. It's a completely normal day, and you can forget what the day is if you're not intentional about it. 

In Turkey this year, I'm living in a relatively small expat community; and we celebrated as a community together. On the third, we had the official celebration at the ambassador's residence where we had maybe 3000 guests! Then on the fourth, maybe 75 employees and families as well as the embassy's marine guards celebrated together with a family style barbeque. Can I just say that BBQ pulled pork topped with bacon is wonderful? Hahah! We played flag football, ultimate frisbee, ate, had some beers, and enjoyed celebrating the fourth as a group. 

I've been trying to remember, but I can't remember what I did to celebrated last year's fourth. This year, though, was a good experience, celebrating with the American community here in Ankara. 

Happy Independence Day, everyone!

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Hattuşa and other updates

Wow, I've really not kept up with my end of the deal, promising to blog more regularly! But that aside, it's good to be writing again. I've finished my third week at the embassy, and it's been really interesting. I'm doing what feels like substantive work which is nice. 

Today, I went to the Ankara solid waste management and repurpose facility which was downright fascinating! Don't call it a dump. Hell, they're digging up old dumps and repurposing the garbage. Frankly really really cool!

Then I went to the Ministry of Environment talking with the EPA about turkey joining the Climate And Clean-air Commission. Followed by a meeting with Turkey's public housing ministry, then off to the Ministry of Development. It was a whirlwind of armored cars, çay, and  Turk khavesi. It felt good to be home. 

In short, I'm glad I'm at the embassy. I feel like I'm doing good work, and it's a good experience. 

Finally, check out my photos from Hattuşa on my Facebook page

Sunday, June 9, 2013

Turkey and the EU: before and after the internship

One of my coworkers this last week said that I should compare my thoughts on Turkish accession to the EU before and after my internship. This coworker said their opinions had really changed over the course of their working here in Ankara and following the situation. So here's the first part of what will be a two part post:

-----------
Going into the internship, my impression has been that Turkey does not really want to be in the EU. Turkey is currently in the tariff zone, allowing for easy access to the European market (Turkey's largest export partner); but they are not constrained by the legal requirements of being an EU member: recognizing Cyprus, constitutional and budget reforms, adopting the Euro, etc.


My feeling going into the internship is that the Turks derive a lot of benefits from the status quo without any of the responsibilities that go along with that. 


What actually confuses me the most though, is why the EU continues with such an imbalanced relationship. It's pretty clear to me that turkey derives benefits from this relationship, but what the EU gets, I don't really know."
-----------


I'm looking forward to revisiting this. Even in the two weeks that I've been living and working here in Ankara, I've revisited some of these original assumptions. So far those revisits haven't upended my original thoughts but added nuance, background, or motivations. Still in the dark about the EU though, hahaha!


I'll come back to this around the first week of August, so I'm looking forward to seeing where I stand in two months or so. 

Monday, June 3, 2013

Experiencing the protests

I'm in my apartment right now listening to them. I live maybe a mile and a half from where the Ankara protests have been centered. I've been advised not to leave the apartment, so I'm inside, but that doesn't mean I'm cut off from the protests.

Typically in Turkey you mark the passage of time with the call to prayer. This week though, at nine pm, it's been the population if Ankara coming onto their balconies banging pots and pans, honking horns, clapping, whistling, singing the national anthem, even. A sign of solidarity that bridges age and class divisions.

And throughout the afternoon I've heard the protests. I can hear chanting, whistling, and I can hear the "pops" of tear gas getting fired. Today there was also a helicopter flying low overhead, circling the area.

To really know what it's been like, please see my Facebook profile where I posted a series of statuses on June 1st about what I was experiencing as over 30,000 people marched on Ankara.  Also, please see my friend and colleague Danielle Cyr's blog post. She was trapped in the protest, and her blog post should be essential reading for everyone.

I'm staying safe, and the embassy is taking good care of our security. But I'm also quite bored stuck in my apartment by myself. As always, I greatly appreciate any thoughts and feedback.
Here's the link to Danielle's blog:

http://daniellelikestowrite.wordpress.com/2013/06/02/ankara-a-traumatic-arrival/



Also some statistics:

-There have been protests in 67 provinces

-There have been over 1000 injured
This includes people shot in the head with tear gas canisters, rubber bullets, and run over by a military water tanker (find the video on YouTube- viewer discretion advised)

-Tens of thousands have been tear gassed by police

-There are at least 2 dead

- about 2000 people have been arrested

Definitely not a Turkish Spring

For anyone who has been remotely following international news the last week, you may have heard ago the protests that have been occurring all over turkey. At the center of the demonstrations are divisions within Turkish society over the role of prime minister Recep Teyyep Erdoğan.

Turkey as a modern state was founded on a principle of almost radical public secularism enforced by the judiciary and the military. Erdoğan has changed the game. He is a rough and tumble urban politician whose base of support are Muslims. And while 99.6% of turkey are Muslims, politicized Islamism has never played a big role in Turkish politics.

Erdoğan has changed the rules of the game in three ways: he has curbed the army and brought it under civilian oversight (in the past, the army has engaged in coups when it felt secularism was being threatened); he has led turkey in a decade of booming economic prosperity (in the last decade Turkey's economy has tripled, with plans to triple it again in time for the republic's centenary in 2023 which would make it the tenth largest economy in the world); and he has become to be seen as an incredibly strong public figure.

This last feature is what most disturbs most people on the streets of turkey. Erdoğan is engaging in a show of force, reminiscent of his earlier days. He is not the typically aristocratic politician, and he has shown flashes of an inferiority complex. This is an outgrowth of the same.

What are the consequences of the demonstrations?

Turkey will not undergo a "Turkish Spring."  At question is not the validity of the Turkish political system. It is a question of Erdoğan. He is currently engaged (along with his economic growth plans) in an attempt to replace the current constitution put in place by a military junta. Under the proposed constitution, the president would be more in the mold of an American president with much more political power.

In his push for the withdrawal of secularism, the "growth above all else" approach to development, and the strengthening of the executive at the expense of traditional powers like the judiciary and the military, Erdoğan has over reached.

Erdoğan will not be swept from power, I don't even think he will lose his position as prime minister in the next elections. However, there will be real consequences of these crackdowns.

1) the proposed constitution will not pass
2) İstanbul will not be awarded the 2020 Olympic Games
3) FDI to turkey will take a hit

All of these are massive personal blows. The Olympics were to be Turkey's coming out party as it approached its centenary and entry as the newest BRICs country.  They will not be awarded to İstanbul. The constitution will be rejected, and this will be a rejection of Erdoğan and his executive style. Finally the growth that Turkey is planning on (an effective 900% expansion of the economy over two decades) is currently about at the limits of what Turkish input can achieve. It requires foreign investment, and I believe foreign corporations will look at state security forces indiscriminately tear gassing, hosing, and (horrifically) running over protestors with water tankers, and these corporations will need to be convinced to come to Turkey.

This is the long term impact of the Taksim protests. Erdoğan will leave office eventually, but the foreign perception of Turkey as a homogeneous Eden of investment has been exposed. Turkey has experienced internal divisions over government's role vis à vis religion before, but now large swaths of the population have challenged the government on it.

The short

The next decade will be expansionary for Turkey but not as smooth as it looked last week, even.

Monday, May 27, 2013

Last day of summer

Today Is the last day of summer (I slept in till 8:30 today and I miss it already). Tomorrow I start working at the embassy here in Ankara, and I couldn't be more excited! I'm starting to get to know my surroundings better, and I'm getting used to everything that comes with living on your own in a foreign country.  I spent the day today trying to figure out where everything is (moderately successful), and tonight, hopefully I'm getting wifi installed.

But I've out together a compare and contrast of Bursa and Ankara for laughs.

Ankara good: high visibility
Ankara bad: tap water has high levels of lead and other heavy metals

Bursa good: tap water is spring water
Bursa bad: the Turks call it cloudy. It's smog.

I thought that this might make a few people laugh. Ad I don't worry about the water too much. Five liters costs about 80 US cents!

But I think that's all for now. Happy Memorial Day, and wish me luck!

Friday, May 24, 2013

In Ankara!


I write as I sit in the bus terminal in Ankara waiting for my friend Matt to pick me up. I start my internship at the US embassy on Tuesday, and I'm very excited, but before then, I need to find an apartment haha!

All this caps off a week that has been my first real break for quite some time, if by break I mean crash course in refreshing/relearning my Turkish! It was very nice to spend that week in Bursa (Alaşar köy) with my host family from the CLS program last year. The Memiş's are incredibly hospitable, and I'm very thankful to have friends like them. 


Before I go, I also want to wish Jenny good luck as she leaves for her internship in Thailand today  you should check out her (video?) blog too (link at bottom). I plan on trying to keep a post or two every week, so send me an email complaint if I don't.
Finally, prediction: Dortmund wins tomorrow 2-1 AET.


Jenny's Thailand blog:
http://www.landofsmilesthailand.blogspot.com/

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

I didn't think I'd be back in Turkey so soon, but I'm glad I am!  Just to recap, I'm here in 2013 as an Intern at the US Embassy in Ankara, though I'm writing from Bursa where I've been the last week. I plan on really restarting the blog soon, but in the meantime,  something to think about:

"Political perception... is a matter of date.  If you want to judge anything written by a foreigner about a country, you need to know when the writer first went there... So often the first encounter is formative.  Emotionally and implicitly,... it remains the standard by which all subsequent developments are judged."

-Timothy Garton Ashe

Friday, August 31, 2012

Coming home


I’ve been back for about 3 weeks now, and it really feels like the start of the new year.  After coming home from Bursa, I had a week at home and then moved into UIC.  We just finished our first week of classes, and it’s with this perspective that I’m really able to reflect on what’s happened this summer.

I spent the summer studying the language and culture of a country very different from anything I’ve experienced.  But it really wasn’t all that different.  Once you get past the colored lens of cultural details, there are certain aspects of the human condition that are universal. 

I lived with a family that was gracious and hospitable; and that was patient and more than willing to invite me into their home and into their family.  I spoke with my host father about grandiose topics such as the role that religious tolerance plays in society, and we talked about John Deere tractors and Michelin tires.

Like most Americans, I hadn’t ever given much thought to Turkey as a country or a culture.  But it was an incredible experience.  If one is curious, interested in religion, society, politics, history, art, architecture, food, or all of the above, and if one is open to new experiences, I cannot recommend traveling to Turkey enough.  In eight weeks, even if I might not have an understanding of thousands of years of context, I certainly gained an insight and an appreciation for the country, culture, and people. 

Turkey is in such a unique position geographically, culturally, socially, and economically.  It is a middle ground between what are seen as incompatible opposites.  It is 98% Muslim, yet denies Islam a place in public life.  It is socially tied to Europe, but it looks to the East for its cultural identity.  It borders the European Union; and it borders Syria, Iran, and Iraq.  And it interacts with the European Union, the Arab League, and Israel, but it isn’t a member of any of these.  It looks to the past to create a sense of nation, but was founded on notions of rejecting backwardness for modernity. 

Really, there is more to Turkey than I could ever put into a blog post, and every day, it seems I can pick out some new nuance that I hadn’t noticed or paid close enough attention to before.  It was an incredible opportunity that pushed me to find new limits of what I have experienced in my life; a new continent, new country, new culture with its own history, new language, new religion, new normal. 

While I might return to the blog and post something in it, I think that this was a pretty fair wrap up of what I’m feeling.  There’s just so much more that I could say, but I will leave it at this.  Turkey has taken me to places – physical and not – and left me breathless, but thankfully not speechless.


Thursday, July 19, 2012

Uruç


You heard it here first. Bu sene ben Ramazan uruçu tutuyorum.  Get ready for grumpy Hugh.

Monday, July 9, 2012

Photos

Everyone,

Here is the public link to all my photos!  Enjoy!

Bursa 2012 Photos HERE!!!

The link is also underneath the blog title

Saturday, July 7, 2012

Iznik, Christianity, and Islam


Yesterday, my class went to Iznik (better known to Christians as Nicaea).  It is famous in Turkey for its tile works, but was notable for me for the Council of Nicaea, the Nicene Creed, and the 7th Ecumenical Council on iconography.  Today, Iznik is a pretty rundown backwater and many of its pre Islamic historical architecture is destroyed by fire, earthquake, or repeated conquest. 

The Council of Nicaea, convened by Emperor Constantine to discuss the divinity of Christ, took place in the wooden imperial palace that has long ago disappeared.  But the Seventh Ecumenical Council is possibly more interesting.  It was a meeting in the 700’s between the four Patriarchies of Christendom: Rome; Constantinople; Alexandria; and Antioch, to discuss the role that icons should play in the Church.  At this point, Icons had not been used in churches for decades from a fear that the images themselves had become objects of worship.  The decision of the council was that Icons could be revered but not adored.  But according to an inaccurate translation, the Roman Patriarchy was offended enough to leave the other three, founding what is today the Roman Catholic Church.   In short, this meeting led to the split between the Catholic and Orthodox Churches. 

This Council took place in Aya Sofia church, which is still standing.  But the building deserves its own explanation.  The church was built in the 600’s, but was converted to a mosque when the Ottomans arrived in Iznik.  It was terribly damaged by earthquakes, and was restored (they put a roof on it, and rebuilt the minaret which had fallen) and made a museum within the last decade and a half.  But two years ago, it was reconverted to a functioning mosque. 

It is a fascinating building.  There are Byzantine mosaics by the entrance. And while the alter of the church faces east, the mosque is orientated to the south-east to face Mecca.  The center of the building is carpeted in the manner of an Islamic prayer room, but surrounded by the gravel that is used in the church museum as a floor.  It is strikingly different from any mosque I’ve seen.  But perhaps the most surprising thing there are the frescoes.  In the church’s front tower, there are fragments of wall paintings depicting St. Andrew (who evangelized the region), angels, and crosses.  But these are separate from the prayer room.  But in the prayer room, protected by Plexiglas is a fragment of a frescoe depicting Jesus, Mary, and John the Baptist. 

We often get the impression that Islam is a religion of violence, repression, and intolerance.  But I have seen nothing but the opposite in my stay here.  I have been invited to join kandil prayers (I declined, though I washed and observed), I listen daily to the music of the calls to prayer, I am consistently amazed by the design and simplistic beauty of mosques, and I am surprised by the willingness of Muslims to talk with me about my faith and the role of Jesus in relation to Christianity’s and Islam’s shared heritage through Abraham.  And now, in one of the most important buildings in Christian history, there is a working mosque, that has proactively protected the Christian history in its worship space. 

This is not the Islam of intolerance that often springs to mind and jumps from television and the pages of newspapers.   This is the Islam of knowledge, peace, and compassion that at one point made the Islamic world the center of science, technology, and literature.  And this is an Islam that has made a permanent impression on me.  

Musings on Atatürk


Mustafa Kemal Atatürk.  Fact: Born Mustafa in Thessalonica, Greece. Second Fact: Name literally translates to Mustafa Kemal perfection Atatürk Father of the Türks (ironic as he had no biological children).

Atatürk is Turkey’s version of George Washington, but if Washington had invented the English Language, and after chopping down the cherry tree, had invented cherry pie and used the ax handle as the first baseball bat. 

In Türkiye, Atatürk is a constant presence.  Statues of him are in every city in the country.  His picture is in every public building, almost all private businesses, and a good percentage of private residences as well.  Every car has either a decal of either the Turkish flag or Atatürk‘s signature in the window, and every house where he spent more than 12 hours is invariably a museum.  There are streets in every city named for him, stadiums, bridges, and parks.  Everything is named for Atatürk. 

So why is he so omnipresent in Turkish life Culture?  To begin with, he really was an extraordinary individual.  He was a war hero in the Turkish-Balkan War, the Turkish-Greek War, and World War I (including the battle of Gallipoli where it could be argued that the modern Australian state has its impetus, and where Atatürk gave an incredible speech). 

After WWI, the Ottoman Empire as an ally of Germany and Austria-Hungary, was dismantled and divided between Greek and Italian interests in the west and French and British interests in the east, leaving Turkey a sliver of coast.  Turkish politics was controlled by the last Ottoman Sultan who also served as the last Caliph, blending Ottoman politics and pan-Islamic politics.  Atatürk led the nationalist revolt against the occupying forces, citing Wilson’s 14 Points for legitimacy. 

After the War of Independence, Atatürk remade a backwards looking Islamist state into the Western looking, but still Muslim, state.  The difference was that religion played no role in the new government.  The Fez was outlawed in 1925 with possibly the greatest law ever, Law 671 – Law on the Wearing of Hats – which required public sector workers to adopt western style hats, leading the general public to follow suit. 

He also recreated the Turkish language.  Turkish is a member of the central Asian Turkik linguistic family, and the spoken language goes back thousands of years.  However, during the Islamic rule of the Ottoman Empire, this spoken language was represented by written Arabic.  Arabic is consonant rich and vowel poor.  Turkish is the complete opposite, making Arabic script an imperfect representation of the language.  It is also difficult to learn, leading to a poorly educated population.  Atatürk convened a council of linguists, educators, and policy experts to create a specific written Turkish language.  Modern written Turkish uses a modified Roman alphabet that almost perfectly represents the phonetics of the spoken language.  The Council recommended that country-wide implementation would take 3-5 years.  Atatürk gave them 3-5 months.  And it worked.  Literacy classes were mandated for all Turkish citizens under the age of 40, and literacy rates went from around 15% to 75% within 3 years. 

But again, why is he everywhere?  There are several answers.  One is that he really was an extraordinary individual with a vision for modern Turkey and a drive to realize that goal.  But there are also issues of proximity.  Atatürk only died in the 1930’s, and there are people who can still remember him personally.  This is not unlike American reverence of George Washington well into the 1800’s.  In fact, I would be interested to know how many towns, schools and bridges are named after G. Washington.  But this historical proximity is key to his role in Turkish society today.

The second factor in his role today is his role as Father of the Türks.  Going back to my blog entry about the flag, Atatürk created modern Turkey’s self-identity.  It is no longer a state ruled by a puppet caliph controlled by the British.  It is a modern state engaged in the world, and Atatürk really is the reason why. 

I’ll leave on this last note.  Atatürk’s signature is K. Atatürk.  6 letters.  In the Turkish language edition of Microsoft Word, there is an Atatürk typeface where the 29 letters in the Turkish language have been created from the 6 in his signature.

Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founder of the Turkish Republic, Father of the Turks,
and  man with the best eyebrows, with his iconic and omnipresent signature.





Hamams and barbers


As some of you may know, I am a big fan of going to the Chicago Sweat Lodge – a Russian and Turkish sauna.  My city in Turkey, Bursa, has been famous since the early 600’s for its hot springs.  This being the case, I headed to Eski Kaplıcı or Old Hot Spring for a day of bathing after class.  To contextualize this, it was 95 out and I walked about a half mile up hill, so when I arrived I was sweaty and hot.  But that only made the experience more typical since Turkey is a dusty and hot place.

The main difference between the Chicago baths and a Turkish bath is that the Chicago Turkish Sauna is a wet sauna, whereas a Turkish Bath really is a bath.  In Bursa, there is a hot spring that enters a small pool at around 80C and filters into a larger pool that is still hot.  Around this there are ledges to sit on where you can rinse with warm or cold water.  And in a cold room, there are ledges to cool off.  I got a vigorous scrub with a mitt that felt like steel wool, and then hopped in and out of the pools for the next three hours.  It really is a different kind of clean than the Russian style I’m used to.  Islamic culture stresses cleanliness – I’ve learned the proper way to ritually wash before entering a mosque – and the importance of cleaning dirt and grime from the skin is important in Turkey. Russian style saunas stress the importance of flushing impurity from the body.  The Turkish bath lays the importance on what’s on the body.

But differences aside, the experience was very good.  I saw a part of the city I hadn’t before.  And the bath itself dates to the 600’s and Emperor Justinius.  The current building is a 14th century building that is just amazing.  I plan on going to another Hamam next week to compare the experiences.

But after the Hamam, I decided to make my version of a spa day and get a shave.  I could see my own mustache which isn’t good for me haha! But I went to the berber in my town and got a very good shave.  There is something exhilarating about sitting while another person holds a razor to your throat.  There is a human bonding experience as he doesn’t pull a Sweeney Todd on you. 

But the shave is not just a shave.  You get a straight razor shave plus a head massage.  I kid you not, I got a head massage.  It was delightful.  And in the city if I pony up an extra 3 Liras, I could get any stubble burned off with a kerosene torch.  Look it up on youtube.  And after warnings from my host family that the berber would be prohibitively expensive, I paid the equivalent of $2US.  This came after the warning that the Hamams were all seething cesspools of filth (they weren’t by the way.  Perfectly clean).  Though I did heed the warning that this particular berber was very bad at haircuts after seeing his bowl cut of the man in front of me.

ü  Go to hamam and have Turkish Bath experience
ü  Get a Turkish shave
Good me-day.

The Parable of the 24 coins


I will preface this post by saying that my host father is a religious man.  This last week I dropped the bombshell of Ben ile aile uruç yapmak istiyorum or: I want to keep the fast (for Ramazan coming up in a little under 2 weeks) with the family.  He was speechless, and since then, he has talked with me more and more about a broad range of topics.  Two nights ago I was outside doing homework when the call to prayer went out.  One of my favorite things about Turkey is hearing the call, and I always stop to listen.  My host father came and told me a story (several times and with the help of props haha!)

Every day, a rich man gave a poor man gave a poor man 24 gold coins, asking one thing in return for his generosity.  He asked only that at the end of the day, the poor man give one gold coin back, which he gladly did. 

This parable, for lack of a better word, is how my host-father described Muslims’ relationship to God through prayer.  God has given us 24 hours in each day, and he asks that we give one of those hours back in prayer.  I really enjoyed the analogy.